The first step is to choose your body.
In this example I am using the 1970 Ford Torino.
Here's how the body looks after the fenders are cut.
I always take my time doing this and double check clearance around the tire.
I tape body parts together and use "Shoe goo" to secure everything together.
I lay generous amounts of it inside the front and rear fenders to provide a little extra strength in a crash.
The front fascia needed a little tape to hold it in place while the glue dries.
The same taping job is done with the rear.
The Torino is a fairly narrow body, so the mounts will need to be moved inward on the frame.
Very gently bend down the mounts, and cut them off at the line that is provided.
Velcro mounts still work OK for hard-body racing, but I prefer to float some brass pin tube through the body, and then I bend some .025 wire to hold the body in place; more on that later.
After soldering is completed I cleaned the chassis in the sink with some Comet and a toothbrush. I might throw it in the tumbler for a few hours later.
Here is the bottom side of the chassis after being scrubbed with a Scotchbrite pad.
Next I painted the body a mean looking purple; I use Tamiya or Model Master Lacquer paints because they are generally dry within an hour.
All the work that you see up to this point took just over an hour to complete.
Here's the 1/16th inch brass tubing poking through the body.
I'll bend some .025" wire to make the retaining clips.
Stay tuned for part 2 of this build.
More information on the products mentioned can be found on the B&E Slotsport web page: www.beslotsport.com/